Ageing Well in Rutherglen: Where Time Creates Liquid Treasures
- intouch Magazine
- Jun 2
- 5 min read
Situated in the fertile Murray River valley of northeastern Victoria, Rutherglen stands as Australia's undisputed capital of fortified wine. This historic wine region, just three hours' drive from Melbourne airport, offers visitors an intoxicating blend of viticultural heritage, worldclass wines, and warm country hospitality that makes it an essential destination for any serious wine enthusiast.
Rutherglen's winemaking story began in the 1850s when European settlers recognised the region's potential for viticulture. The area's Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild winters, proved perfect for producing the concentrated, complex wines that would become the region's calling card. Gold rush prosperity brought investment and expertise, establishing wineries that continue to operate today, some still under the stewardship of their founding families.
What truly sets Rutherglen apart is its mastery of fortified wine production and the ancient art of extended aging. These amber and topaz treasures, aged through a traditional solera system that can span decades, represent some of Australia's most distinctive and internationally acclaimed wines. The region's unique terroir, characterised by rich alluvial soils deposited by the Murray River, combined with the patient dedication of multigenerational winemakers, creates fortified wines of extraordinary depth and complexity that improve with each passing year. In Rutherglen, time isn't just an ingredient – it's the secret that transforms good wine into liquid gold.
The crown jewel is undoubtedly Rutherglen Muscat, a dessert wine of legendary status that showcases the region's unparalleled ability to create wines of longevity and evolving complexity. Available from a number of local producers, the MoR Stamp of Authenticity is a trademark applied only to wines made from the great Muscat vineyards of the region.
The region also produces exceptional fortified Shiraz, demonstrating how traditional techniques can enhance robust red varieties. These wines combine the power of Shiraz with the concentration that comes from fortification and extended aging, creating wines of incredible depth and longevity.
While cool climate varieties like Durif, Shiraz, and increasingly popular Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio showcase the region's versatility, they serve as perfect companions to the main event – those ancient, amber treasures that have made Rutherglen famous worldwide.
De Bortoli acquired the historic Rutherglen Estates in 2018, adding this significant property to their family wine business that began in 1928. The Rutherglen Estate operates from a landmark building originally constructed as wine cellars in 1886, which housed various winemakers for over 100 years, including Seppelt's operations.
The modern cellar door showcases a diverse range of wines, including Italian and Mediterranean varietals alongside regional favourites like Durif and Muscat. The estate specialises in traditional Rutherglen styles with their own contemporary interpretation, offering award-winning fortified wines, including their famous Tawny.
For those seeking to fully immerse themselves in the Rutherglen experience, Tuileries Accommodation at De Bortoli offers luxury vineyard accommodation that perfectly complements the wine tasting journey. These beautifully appointed and recently renovated rooms sit amongst the vines, providing guests with picturesque views across the vineyard and the opportunity to witness the daily rhythms of winemaking life.
Staying at Tuileries provides exclusive access to special tastings and behind-the-scenes experiences at De Bortoli, making it an ideal base for serious wine enthusiasts. The accommodation's location also offers easy access to other Rutherglen wineries, making it possible to explore the region thoroughly without the need for extensive travel.
The dining experience at Tuileries Restaurant at De Bortoli elevates the Rutherglen visit from excellent to extraordinary.
The menu changes seasonally to reflect the best available local ingredients, with modern Australian cuisine that incorporates strong regional influences and dishes designed to highlight the character of Rutherglen wines. The restaurant's extensive wine list features the very best from Rutherglen winemakers, naturally showcasing the full range of De Bortoli wines and a number of other local wines that also make an appearance on the extensive wine list, while celebrating the exceptional quality that has made the region famous.
Food and wine matching is a large part of the Tuileries' offering, with knowledgeable staff ready to make suggestions that enhance the dining experience. The restaurant's commitment to pairing their cuisine with quality wines demonstrates the versatility of Rutherglen's wine styles, from robust reds (they are famous for their Durif) to cool Pinot Grigios. The dining room's design captures the essence of refined country dining, with the Tuscan-style courtyard providing a perfect backdrop for leisurely meals.
A newer addition to the Rutherglen landscape, Scion Wines brings fresh innovation to traditional fortified wine production. Founded by experienced winemakers with a deep understanding of Rutherglen's aging traditions, Scion focuses on small-batch, artisanal fortified wines that honour the region's heritage. Their approach combines time honoured solera methods with precise modern techniques, creating fortified wines that capture Rutherglen's essence while appealing to contemporary palates. Their intimate tasting room offers rare access to young and aged fortified wines side by side, allowing visitors to understand the transformation that time creates in these remarkable wines. This Cellar Door provided us with our favourite wine of this trip – Muscat X - a contemporary spin on Rutherglen tradition. The blend of fortified brown muscat matured in ancient oak casks was designed to be served on the rocks, neat or in cocktails (and I can confirm it is delicious every which way). Also available from the Cellar Door is their Drunk Honey, which we think refers more to the bees making the tasty treat than the honey itself!
Established in 1870, Campbells Wines represents five generations of the Campbell family's mastery of fortified wine production. Their historic cellars house some of Australia's oldest continuously aged wine stocks, with some barrels containing fortified wines with base wines over 70 years old. The family's unwavering commitment to the traditional solera system has created a living library of extraordinary complexity, where each year's harvest joins wines from previous decades in their ancient casks. Their Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat, containing wine components aged for over 70 years, is considered one of Australia's greatest dessert wines and consistently receives outstanding critical acclaim.
The family-owned Stanton & Killeen winery, established in 1875, exemplifies Rutherglen's artisanal approach to fortified wine aging. The Killeen family has maintained traditional solera methods across seven generations, creating fortified wines of remarkable complexity through patient aging. Their modified solera system spans multiple decades, with some wine components dating back to the early 1960s and housed in casks that are over 100 years old. What makes Stanton & Killeen particularly special is their commitment to traditional winemaking methods and their willingness to age wines far longer than commercial necessity demands. Their Classic and Grand Rutherglen Muscats represent exceptional value, offering genuine aged complexity at accessible prices. The winery's relaxed atmosphere includes barrel room tours where visitors can explore their historic cellars and century-old fortified barrels, providing insight into how fortified wines evolve over decades.
Our flying visit was only for 24 hours (an overnight stopover on a road trip to Melbourne), however, Rutherglen's compact size makes it perfect for a long weekend escape, and serious wine enthusiasts will find enough to explore for a full week. The region's cellar doors are generally open daily, though booking ahead for private tastings and experiences is recommended. The best times to visit are during harvest season (February to April) when the energy of winemaking fills the air, or during the cooler months when the pace is more relaxed and perfect for savouring aged wines. The June Long Weekend sees the annual Roam Rutherglen Festival come to town. It’s Australia’s oldest wine festival that continues to draw a big crowd of wine enthusiasts – a highlight on the annual Rutherglen calendar.
