Two Wineries Pushing the Boundaries in the Hunter Valley
- intouch Magazine
- May 1
- 3 min read
Nestled among the rolling hills and lush landscapes of the Hunter Valley, Australia's oldest wine region, two wineries are reimagining what the Hunter Valley experience can be—each in their own distinctive way.
When Emma White traded her corporate accounting career and power suits for vineyard boots, she brought a fresh perspective to winemaking. Her motto, "fun with serious intent," perfectly captures the spirit of Latitude 32 Wines, a relatively new addition to Hermitage Road in Pokolbin.
The modern farmhouse-style cellar door, opened in April 2024, breaks with convention by creating what White describes as "a cosy home-style space." Floor-to-ceiling glass offers sweeping views of vineyards against the dramatic backdrop of the Brokenback Mountains, while the relaxed atmosphere encourages visitors to take their wine and wander.
"We sell wine by the glass and encourage people to take their glasses and wander around the grounds, stroll to the dam, and feel that connection to the land," explains White, who purchased two premium vineyards, including a former Tyrrells vineyard with 45-year-old vines in 2018 and the award-winning Mistletoe Vineyard in 2023.
What sets Latitude 32 apart is its approach to winemaking itself.
"One of the advantages of being new to this industry is that we are not beholden to multiple generations of traditions. We don't have to deliver that history in the glass." White says.
This freedom allows the winemaking team to fully embrace vintage variation in European style rather than forcing consistency year after year.
The winery's commitment to innovation extends to its vineyard practices. White prefers the term "regenerative" over "sustainable," focusing on practices that help the land regenerate. Their approach includes planting diverse cover crops between vine rows— canola, legumes, rhubarb and more—creating a natural ecosystem that reduces the need for
chemicals and synthetic fertilisers. They have also introduced native bees to pollinate the local fauna and lady bugs to naturally protect against pests.
With winemaker Adam Holmberg (formerly of Tyrrells and Leogate Estate) joining the team, Latitude 32 continues to experiment, producing not only classic Hunter Valley varieties like Semillon and Shiraz but also looking to plant Spanish varietals Mencia and Tempranillo and Italian Aglianico.
Their cellar door experience is equally innovative, offering unique dumpling and wine pairings alongside more traditional options, breakfast hampers for vineyard picnics, and monthly Friday Night Jam Sessions with food trucks and wines flowing until 9pm.
While Latitude 32 brings fresh energy as a newcomer, Hungerford Hill balances innovation with more than five decades of winemaking history. Established in 1967 by John Parker during Australia's wine renaissance, this iconic estate has evolved through various ownership changes to become a landmark destination in the Hunter Valley. The distinctive barrel shaped cellar door, designed by architect Walter Barda, has become instantly recognisable since its construction in 2002. But it's what's happening inside that truly pushes boundaries.
Under Chief Winemaker Bryan Currie, who joined when Sam Arnaout's Iris Capital acquired the property in 2016, Hungerford Hill has continued its tradition of innovation. The opportunity to work with fruit from multiple climate zones across NSW—from the Hunter Valley to Tumbarumba and Hilltops attracted Currie to the role.
"We're having fun creating Spanish-style wine using early-ripening Tempranillo and late-ripening Graciano from Hilltops," says Currie.
"We're proud to offer a wine for every palate and every occasion with wines from multiple regions—the full NSW experience."
This multi-regional approach allows Hungerford Hill to craft wines that showcase the unique characteristics of each area: lighter, fragrant Shiraz from Dalwood Estate's sandy soil; richer, fuller-bodied wines from Sweetwater Estate's red clay over limestone; and cold-climate varieties like Pinot Noir from Tumbarumba.
Since 2020, Currie has also experimented with vegan-friendly wines using plant proteins for fining instead of traditional
animal-based agents, as well as preservative free wines that develop more savoury, textural profiles.
The innovation extends beyond the bottle. Hungerford Hill is home to Muse, the Hunter Valley's only two-hatted restaurant, creating perfect pairings between contemporary Australian cuisine and the winery's diverse portfolio. Their popular Epic Tasting Experience offers a mini-degustation of Hungerford Hill wines matched with bite-sized dishes from Muse.
While taking different approaches—Latitude 32 with its fresh perspective unhindered by tradition and Hungerford Hill with its respect for heritage coupled with forward-thinking experimentation—both wineries embody the evolving spirit of the Hunter Valley wine region. Whether you're enjoying a glass of Latitude 32's award-winning Semillon while playing giant
Jenga on their lawn, or savouring Hungerford Hill's Spanish-style blends in their iconic barrelshaped cellar door, these boundary-pushing wineries offer compelling reasons to explore beyond the familiar in Australia's oldest wine region.
