Australia's Pinot Coast: A Weekend in the Mornington Peninsula
- Di von Essen
- Jul 1
- 6 min read
Just over an hour's drive from Melbourne, the picturesque maritime playground of the Mornington Peninsula between Port Phillip and Western Port bays offers that rare combination of world-class wine, exceptional food, and landscapes that make you stop mid-sentence to simply absorb the beauty. My recent weekend here left me with only one overwhelming regret – that we hadn't stayed for a week!
The Peninsula's unique terroir, shaped by volcanic soil and cooling sea breezes from three surrounding coastlines, creates ideal conditions for producing elegant, cool-climate wines. Over 200 vineyards dot rolling hills, with more than 50 cellar doors open to visitors, each offering their own interpretation of this distinctive landscape. The region has built its reputation on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it's the diversity of experiences – from intimate, family run estates to architectural marvels housing world-class art – that makes this destination so compelling.
Our base for the weekend was the stunning RACV Cape Schanck, perched dramatically on the peninsula's southern edge where the Bass Strait meets the coastline. The resort's Ocean View Villas proved perfect for our group, offering complete self-contained luxury with panoramic views that seemed to stretch to infinity. While the main hotel's facilities were undeniably fabulous – the championship golf course, luxury day spa, and multiple restaurants – there was something magical about having our own private retreat where we could uncork bottles from the day's discoveries and watch the sun set over the water (and even catch a glimpse of the Aurora Australis). Now, on to the wine!
Our first stop is Yabby Lake Vineyard. The cellar door, with its expansive windows and recycled timber features, creates an intimate setting for tasting their exceptional wines while overlooking the vineyard that produces them. Yabby Lake has built a reputation for producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of great purity and character under its Single Vineyard and Single Block Release labels. Led by winemaker Tom Carson, their Block 1 Pinot Noir was the first Pinot Noir ever to win the revered Jimmy Watson Trophy, after 52 years of the award's history. Taster's Tip – If you’re there on a weekend, be sure to book your tasting in advance.
Quealy Winemakers offers perhaps the Peninsula's most authentic tasting experience. The atmosphere is delightfully unpretentious – you might find yourself being served by the winemaker, vineyard manager, or even Kathleen Quealy herself, depending on who's around that day. Known as the "Queen of Pinot Grigio," Kathleen was the first person to plant Pinot Gris/Grigio in Australia, pioneering this variety at T'Gallant in the 1990s before establishing Quealy with Kevin McCarthy. Their single-vineyard expressions, including the acclaimed Musk Creek and Tussie Mussie Pinot Gris wines, showcase some of the Peninsula's oldest and finest sites, offering remarkable complexity and finesse. Tastings here might include spontaneous comparisons between their various Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio styles or a casual tour of the winery. Taster's Tip – Be sure to try their delicious olive oil and focaccia during your tasting, or splurge on a cheese plate.
The charming Merricks Store serves as a unique gateway to the Peninsula's smaller boutique winemakers who don't have their own cellar doors (and some that do). Housed in a heritage building that was once a post office and general store, it showcases wines from Baillieu and Elgee Park vineyards, along with selections from neighbouring estates. The store operates as both a cellar door and a bistro, offering complimentary wine tastings daily alongside seasonal dining that celebrates local produce. Taster's Tip - It's a perfect stop to discover hidden gems from smaller producers.
Main Ridge Estate holds the distinction of being the Peninsula's first licensed winery, established in 1975 on what was originally a small lemon orchard. Under the current ownership of Tim and Libby Sexton, along with their winemaker son James, this boutique operation continues the tradition of producing exquisite Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from estate-grown fruit. The historic Red Hill cellar door, set in a working winery with tranquil bush and vineyard views from the sundeck, offers personal service by the winemaker and extended family. Taster's Tip – Walk amongst the vineyards you taste from.
At Red Hill Estate, we found ourselves naturally settling into the unhurried rhythm that defines this place. The contemporary cellar door feels intimate despite its size, and our host took genuine pleasure in sharing the stories behind each wine as we moved through their cool-climate collection. There's something about the rustic farmhouse setting, nestled among the vines, that immediately puts you at ease – perhaps it's the way the staff seem genuinely happy to see you, or how they encourage you to take your time with each glass. Taster's Tip – Stay for lunch!
Pt. Leo Estate transcends the typical winery experience, combining exceptional cool climate wines with Australia's largest collection of privately owned sculptures. The 16-acre Sculpture Park features over 60 large-format Australian and International works valued at nearly $70 million. The sculpture walk ($15 per person) winds through the vineyards and
native flora, creating a beautiful symbiosis of art, nature and culture against the backdrop of rolling vineyards and ocean views. The cellar door showcases site-expressive wines, while their restaurant, Leo, offers contemporary dining with spectacular views over the vineyard and Western Port. Taster's Tip – Allow yourself a few hours to truly appreciate this venue and go in the afternoon for the sunset.
Crittenden Estate is one of the Peninsula's oldest family-owned and operated vineyards. Their home-grown varieties of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Savagnin are showcased in The Zumma, Cri de Coeur and Kangerong wines, while you can also explore the broader Mornington Peninsula through their Peninsula wines or get a taste for Victoria's best regions and vineyards in their Pinocchio, Geppetto, and the unique Mediterranean varieties of the Los Hermanos range of wine, which feature some of their favourite varieties from around the world. The tasting team are terrific about getting to understand your personal likes and dislikes, tailoring each seated tasting experience to ensure you discover wines that genuinely resonate with your palate. Taster's Tip – Be sure to include one of their unique Mediterranean varieties from the Los Hermanos range in your tasting.
Beyond the wineries, the Peninsula's food scene celebrates the region's abundant local produce with infectious enthusiasm. Merricks Cottage offers lunch that truly celebrates local ingredients, creating dishes that feel like love letters to the Peninsula's farmers and producers. For something wonderfully indulgent, the drive down the coast to Sorrento rewards visitors with a glimpse of the famous colourful beach huts before reaching the famous Pie Pantry, where you’ll find pies containing everything that you thought should go into a pie (and some things you thought should not!).
Back in Dromana, Laneway Espresso delivers what can only be described as unbelievably delicious brunch. The café captures that perfect Peninsula balance of sophisticated food in a relaxed setting, where quality coffee meets creative breakfast dishes that utilise the best of local produce.
The drive from Bay to Coast takes you through Arthur's Seat, the Peninsula's highest point at 314 metres, which provides spectacular views that, on clear days, stretch to the Melbourne city skyline. The all-weather Arthurs Seat Eagle gondola offers a bird's eye perspective as it soars above the trees, providing panoramic views over Port Phillip Bay and the Peninsula's diverse landscape. And for those lucky enough to time their visit right (we were), the peninsula offers excellent opportunities to witness the Aurora Australis, with locations like Cape Schanck and Flinders among Victoria's best spots for viewing the Southern Lights.
What strikes you most about the Mornington Peninsula is how it manages to feel both sophisticated and unpretentious. The winemakers pour their passion into every glass, the chefs source ingredients from neighbours they know personally, and the landscape provides a backdrop so beautiful it seems almost orchestrated.
Whether you're seeking world-class wines, exceptional food, stunning scenery, or simply a place to slow down and reconnect, the Peninsula delivers with a generosity that makes leaving genuinely difficult. Our weekend felt like a tantalising preview of a much longer story – one that includes morning mists over the vineyards, sunset dinners overlooking the bay, therapeutic hot springs, sailing to lunch at Queenscliff and countless more discoveries and hidden beaches waiting along winding country roads. Next time, we’ll be taking the end off “weekend”, and staying for a week!
NOTE: The author received no payment or incentives from any of the businesses mentioned in this article.
